Impact Driver vs Drill Driver — The Ultimate Driving Tool Showdown

They look virtually the same, they both drive screws, and either unit can drill holes (well, kinda). So, what’s the difference between impact driver vs drill driver machines?

Life used to be straightforward — drills drilled and screwdrivers screwed. Then came combi drill/drivers, the DIYers and trade pros’ ultimate fantasy — a single tool that could do both jobs. It was Heaven, nirvana, and Shangri-La all rolled into one — things couldn’t get any better.

Then tool boffins decided, actually, things could get better. So they invented the impact driver — a machine that could drive screws and bolts and have a pretty good attempt at drilling holes. Despite everyone pointing out that’s precisely what drill drivers could do — the tool boffins said, Ah yes, but it’s different. It’s better at some things, and a bit less capable at others.

Everyone was understandably confused. And they still are today.The truth is, there is a significant difference between impact drill vs drill drivers — particularly in which circumstances and how they should be used. Want to learn the answers that have evaded the sharpest minds in power tools for years? Read on!

The Difference Between Drill and Impact Driver

The most straightforward method of revealing the difference between drill driver and impact driver is to initially look at each unit individually:

Impact Driver — The Punchy Powerhouse

The original purpose of the impact driver was to drive fasteners — and it remains its unsurpassed speciality.

Its skill in pushing screws, bolts, and nuts lies in its novel power mechanism. In opposition to a drill driver’s consistent and steady rotation — the impact driver knocks out short and brawny bursts of immense torque. When its chuck meets resistance, the motor rapidly rotates the bit and abruptly stops. It rotates again, and then stops.

This innovative system has the effect of breaking down and weakening the target material’s internal structure/fibres — allowing the bolt or screw to penetrate the wood or metal.

That’s why, when looking at the impact vs drill driver differences, the distinction primarily lies in the impact drivers’ almost singular focus on ramming substantial fasteners into dense materials.

Torque

Depending on the model, impact drivers knock out anywhere between 200 to 300 Nm of grunty torque.

Chuck

Impact drivers use a quarter-inch (0.635 cm) quicklock hex chuck, which delivers improved bit stability over a drill driver’s three-point grip. However, this hex clamp is unsuitable for grasping standard drill bits.

Drilling

They can bore, but you should only use them in a drilling emergency — if no better tool is available. They lack the rotational precision and consistency of drill drivers — and are likely to snap your bit in half.

Power Source

Most cordless impact drivers run on 12-20-volt lithium cells, similar to drill drivers. However, more grunty pneumatic impact drivers are also available for trade pros.

Speed

They’re slow, intentionally — the internal gearing sacrifices rapidity for brawn. Therefore, impact drivers are generally rated in IPM (impacts per minute) instead of drill drivers’ RPM (revolutions per minute).

Drill Driver — Rotational Reliability

The drill driver‘s potency is its ability to deliver controllable, regular rotational force.

This permits the unit to be as suited to creating precise holes in wood and metal as it is in driving screws. Typically boasting a speed-control trigger and a clutch torque limiter to prevent overdriving or head shearing, it provides reassuring accuracy and control. This contrasts with the somewhat all-out beast behaviour of the impact driver.

However, this focus on consistency can be the tool’s downfall.

Cutting out when resistance is too great — it cannot cope with longer screws or seriously dense materials. Furthermore, its reliance on rotation makes drill drivers unsuitable for unyielding masonry and concrete — where you need the intermittent blows of impact drivers or hammer drills.

Torque

Suitable for light-to-medium-duty projects, drill drivers push out around 30-50 Nm of torque — relatively insignificant compared to an impact driver.

Chuck

Depending on the size of the drill driver, it will feature either a 0.25 (0.635 cm) or 0.5-inch (1.27 cm) keyless chuck — capable of accepting drill and screwdriver bits.

Drilling

Drill drivers excel at powering into timber, metals, and plastic — although, lacking a hammer function, they’re unsuitable for masonry.

Power Source

The majority of drill drivers are powered by a 10.8 to 18-volt lithium-ion cell.

Speed

Many drill drivers feature a torque/speed control feature on the chuck, allowing you to trade off one for the other. On the lowest torque, high-speed setting — they can knock out around 2000-3000 RPM.

When to Use Driver Drill vs Impact Drill?

Perhaps the most important takeaway from this Difference Between a Impact Driver and Drill article, is when to wield each tool. Understanding this concept can mean the difference between project success and failure!

When to Use a Drill Driver

• Drilling holes in wood, plaster, drywall, plastic, and light metal (not masonry).
• Driving screws into wood, drywall, and other light mediums.
• Bolt loosening/tightening applications with moderate torque requirements.
• Creating screw pilot holes.
• Screwdriving when overdriving or target material damage is a concern.
• Using hole saws or alternative speciality bits.
• Stirring paint (with correct attachment).

When to Use an Impact Driver

• Powering thick or long screws/bolts into dense materials (decking, lag bolts, etc).
• Removing stubborn, seized, or rusted fasteners.
• Attaching or removing metal panels.
• Any rotational projects that demand the ultimate in torque.

Impact Drivers vs Drill Drivers Comparison Table